Journal
7-24
Hi. It’s day 2 here in Tanzania. I haven’t had time
to log day 1 yet, so I’ll try now.
7-23 (7-24)
Arrived in Nairobi @ 7:00 AM local time after a hellish trans – Atlantic
/ African flight sequence. We got to our digs here at the Ngurdoto
Mountain Lodge, and it’s beautiful. Beautiful, and empty. Like
Twilight Zone empty. We’re tired, confused, but happy to be
here. We spend the whole day walking around, and got a tour of the “golf
course” under construction from the head greens keeper, Steve.
He should have consulted a manual or web site, for he is in way over
his head. Nice guy, though.
We end up having breakfast, late lunch / early dinner, and then
fall out around 7:00 PM, totally exhausted and delirious. We were
nodding off during and before our meal, and were quite incoherent.
I managed to sleep for at least 12 hours.
7-24
Here I am, around 3:00 PM, just off a lunch, a few beers, and my
gear being laid on my bed for an upcoming inspection. We met the
Aussies we’re climbing with; they’re good guys. A father
and son, along with a family friend. We had lunch and beers together,
and had a good time getting to know each other. Now we wait for Wilbert
to inspect our gear and give us the pre hike briefing. Oh yeah, we
were supposed to move to our original lodging facility, but they
are still “in renovation”. So I’m feeling kind
of cooped up here at the opulent but relatively empty Ngurdoto Mountain
Lodge. I’ll check in later…
7-24 (cont.), 11:20 PM
I’ve finished packing, checking every last detail, and I think
all is ready to go. I have a camera battery still charging in the
North wing of the estate, so as long as I remember to get that in
the morning, all will be well. I’ve trained hard, well, and
I am confident I’ve given myself the best chance to succeed.
The boys seem ready to go, also.
We got a taste of Arusha tonight. We were taken into town by a friend
of Wilbert’s, changed traveler’s checks at the Impala
Hotel in downtown Arusha, and cruised around town via car. The Impala
looks like a cool place to stay, with more tourists and more activity
in general. We stopped at a pub called “The Galaxy”,
and had beer with our driver. Fun time, fun town.
Now, I’ll try to sleep. Wake up is at 6:30 AM; departure for
the park gates is 8:00 AM. Here we go…
7-25
Lemosho Gate to Forest Camp
Day 1 on the mountain has come to a close. Here I am, in my sleeping
bag and tent, actually getting warmer slowly but surely. It is pretty
damn cold here at Forest Camp, elev. 9100 ft.
We had a crazy day. It started with a two-hour plus drive, first
through flat pasture land on a paved highway, then turning into a
bumpy dirt trail that meandered around a lot of what appeared to
be abandoned mines. Once we arrive at the park gates, I was surprised
at what I saw: a pine forest. The pines were everywhere, maintained
by the locals as a “crop”. We also saw lots of squalid
villages, like Londorossi; wooden, simple cottages, reminiscent of
a pioneer days look. We passed one of these villages named “Poverty
Gulch”. Even so, the kids would yell and scream, but mostly
smile when we drove by. A very happy people it seems. At least the
kids.
The hike itself today was nice. Incredible scenery throughout today’s
stretch. Rain forest, then montane forest, where we camp now. Luckily
for us we are here in the dry season. I could easily see this trail
being a muddy mess.
I was taken aback by our hiking pace. We were walking at a s l o
w rate. No more than half of our regular pace. Wilbert says this
is to ensure that our lungs don’t work too hard, thereby helping
prevent the onset of AMS.
It’s been fun getting to know the Aussies and the porters
alike. For whatever reason, I keep bringing up Britney (Spears);
I’ve even instructed the porters to just call me “Britney’s
Boyfriend”.
I’m learning Swahili: Asante sana – “Thank you
very much”. Jambo – “Hello”. Lala Salama – “Good
night”. Karibu – “Welcome”.
All in all, this is shaping up to be a great time. Can’t wait
for day 2. Now, for a great sleep…
7-26
Forest Camp to Shira 1
Before I begin with the hike, I must mention lest I forget that
last night’s meal as well as tonight’s was fantastic.
These guys really go above and beyond to serve us. We were all thrilled
beyond expectation with our meals, as well as everything else.
And the hike – today was fantastic. We started in the rain
forest, moved to the montane forest, then through very California – looking
scrub areas, where we basically are now. I am amazed at the varied
plant life at this elevation. Maybe the rains keep the area vegetated,
but it really is a marvel.
Well, we hiked for about 7 hours, slowly, and mostly straight up.
So far, no switchbacks, just mountain goat style verts. Easily the
best moment of the day was as we crested and made a move around the
Shira saddle, we got our first view of Kibo, which was worth the
price of admission right there. It is magnificent, large, glacier – covered,
and perfect. There was little to no cloud cover, so we had unobstructed
views of it until sundown. Even when dark, the glaciers glow ultrawhite.
Unreal.
Gavin performed an impromptu show in camp before dinner, and all
of the porters were excited about it. After a while, they even sang
along a few words they recognized. They were very happy, dancing
and clapping. Good guys, all of them.
Another unique event – I had a camp shower. More refreshing
than I thought possible. I feel clean and ready for hiking tomorrow.
First, a night of sleep at 11,500 ft. Hopefully, it goes well. Last
night was ok; I had about 4 dreams, and I remembered each one. There
may be more tonight, or, if I’m lucky, deep, solid sleep. Let’s
see how it goes…
7-27
Shira 1 to Fischer’s Camp
I think we’re at 12,500 ft. tonight. This may log in as the
highest elevation I’ve spent an evening at. Of course, not
for long.
We awoke this morning after a frigid night to an equally frigid
morning. The bowls of water we use to wash our hands are now dumped
on the ground as frozen solid blocks of ice. And at 11,500 ft.?!?
Our hike today was “short”, 4 hours, but mostly cool
and windy, as we gradually climbed the Shira plateau towards the
base of Kibo. We are slowly leaving the heavy vegetation, as the
plants are now sparsely located. I’m still amazed at 12,500
ft. there are plants at all. There are even little ferns every here
and there.
After we arrived in camp, we had a nice lunch of minestrone soup.
Gavin and Balazs had their taste of Vegemite, as I had done this
morning at breakfast. We don’t know why one would voluntarily
eat the stuff.
Balazs and I collaborated on some nice documentary work this afternoon.
I interviewed Tim, Benno, and some porters as B filmed. We also gave
a camp tour, consisting of the shitter, a tent, and our always-outstanding
views.
We’re all a bit tired today. The sun is fierce, the wind was
tough today, and we are a touch weary. Still plenty of strength to
go on, but the idea of going to bed at 9:00 PM almost sounds late!
I noticed a mild headache in camp, so I took an Excedrin. After a
while, I felt fine. We notice that once we are at rest, sudden movements
can wind you, so its best to just relax. It’s almost easier
to be hiking, for at least the blood is flowing and the muscles are
active.
Tomorrow, we are off to Sheffield Camp, where we will stay for 2
days to rest and acclimatize. Until then…
7-28
Fischer’s to Sheffield
Big day today. What was advertised as a 3 or 4 hour hike ended up
being 4 solid hours, but as exhausting as any previous day. My GPS
has us at 14,900 ft., while Wilbert says we’re at 14,300 ft.
Either way, we’re high. The three Yanks all had a headache
today upon reaching camp. We all three chose to rest rather than
hike to Lava Tower with the Aussies. The headache for me was more
severe than yesterday, but I have noticed improvement as the day
has worn on.
As far as the geography goes, I continue to be amazed daily. Today,
we finished our trek through the Shira plateau and are officially
at the base of Kibo. This is the moon, or Mars, or somewhere other
than I have ever seen. This mountain is still fantastic, and I am
in constant awe.
I took my first two Diamox today, one upon reaching camp, and one
with my bedtime Dilantin. I think I will continue to take it, providing
I feel no ill effects. It’s funny that we seem to suffer the
most while we are in camp, not being active. I guess we have more
time to dwell on our ailments. I much prefer being on the trail.
I’m sure I’ll feel not my best at Arrow and Crater camps,
but as long as we are ‘Pole, Pole’ on the way up, we
will make it. That I am sure of. It will not be easy, though. We
knew that coming in.
Anyway, tomorrow we will go on a short acclimatization hike for
a couple hours, then back to camp. I think we’ll benefit from
this extra day here.
7-29
Sheffield Camp (Day 2)
I definitely benefited from this rest / acclimatization day. It
started oddly enough, though, with my water bottles and bladder tube
being frozen, while in my tent all night. That’s some cold
shit.
We had a nice in the morning to a place we dubbed “Our Point”,
elevation 15,000 ft. (according to Wilbert). My headache has been
eliminated by this point, but in one of my dumbest moves ever, I
decide to participate in the porter – wide soccer derby that
Balazs introduces by pumping his ball up. Basically, a guy lobbed
in corner kicks and we tried to score on headers and bikes. I got
two solid heads on, and then I was done. Minor headache ensued, but
that was cured with a 3 hour afternoon nap, which was glorious. I
was out, even caught myself drooling at one point. I took my second
shower of the hike today in the late afternoon, and that damn wind
froze my ass off. Still, even a little shady bladder shower makes
you feel much better. That probably will be my last one of the trip,
with an exception at Mweka camp, after our long summit day. I think
at the next two camps (Arrow and Crater) we will probably be in full
gear at all times judging by the weather here at Sheffield. It’s
gorgeous, sunny, but fucking cold. The afternoons are ok, especially
in the sun, but otherwise it is Antarctica here. Anyway, I’m
going to pass out now. See ya.
7-30
Arrow Glacier Camp
Had a nice, pole pole hike to Arrow today. A lot more steep sections
than I had anticipated. We are now in full use of the “rest
step” technique, where you take a stride, lock your rear leg
at the knee, and transfer your weight uphill. It saves energy, but
it is slow. But who cares, we’re not in a race.
My GPS has us at close to 16,000 ft., but Wilbert says we’re
at 15,500 ft. Whatever. Thankfully, I got into camp with no headache.
I think we were all huffing and puffing a bit, but I feel generally
good. After an acclimatizing hike this afternoon, I took a massive
shit. Multiple loads, consistencies, and many flushes. It all went
down, thankfully. The wind here is so strong that I thought I might
get blown over as I was dumping. God bless that little toilet, and
the poor guy who has to carry it.
There are a couple of girls in this camp. We think they are from
South Africa. I think their group is summitting tonight. What hell.
Wilbert keeps asking me if Britney’s “talked” to
me yet. I keep telling him no. He said his Colorado girl hasn’t
text messaged him yet, either. We’ll have to wait and see.
We rise at 5:30 AM tomorrow, ready to leave camp by 6 AM. Holy fucking
cold. We have our most significant day tomorrow, as we conquer the
Western Breach and make camp at the crater, next to the Furtwangler
glacier. Should be an absolutely incredible day, in all senses and
aspects.
I’m supposed to try to get some sleep now. It is probably
7:30 PM. Dark, cold, windy. Hopefully I can (sleep). The early start
time tomorrow is looming. Here goes nothing.
7-31
Crater Camp
Well, here we are at 18,500 ft. Way the fuck up there. And a long
day it has been. We started hiking from Arrow at 6 AM. Talk about
cold. Then, we spend the day tackling the Western Breach. Basically,
we spend the day ascending 2500 ft. straight up this crazy mountain.
Very few switchbacks, and the ones that were there were just to avoid
a cliff or rock or something.
Today is the day that I’m glad I worked out for the last 6
months. It all paid off. I climbed well. I was strong, my muscles
didn’t fail me, and though I was short of breath (we all are),
I have the lung capacity to recover.
What a sight and feeling it was to finally get above that last crest
and see the Furtwangler glacier. It was spectacular. I couldn’t
believe it. I walked up to it, checked it out; it’s fantastic.
Got great photos.
Balazs, Tim, and myself went on the optional hike to the Ash Pit.
A longer walk than I suspected, but still a fantastic walk. It looks
like the Saarlac Pit from Star Wars.
* This is the last entry, for the time being, as I have lost
my journal. My parents are in the middle of an extensive home renovation,
and I like to think that my notebook got stowed away in a box somewhere;
hopefully I’ll recover it and put the rest of my content on
the site soon…
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